11 Kochi - Feb 16

The day started in Jaipur – but we immediately headed to the airport for a flight southward to Kochi. Upon arrival, the first thing that hit us was the temperature which was in the 90’s F, (30’s C), far different from the cooler temperatures in the north where they had been in the 70’s F (low 20’s C) and even cooler in the mornings. As we headed off to our hotel – Le Meridien - we were immediately aware of marked differences to our surroundings in the southern city in the State of Kerala from what we had seen in the northern cities. Traffic was more manageable, the surroundings were greener and lusher than before, there seemed to be a bit more order in things. A general air of greater prosperity seemed to prevail, and then headed to the fishing area to see how the nets were hung. After that we headed to the Keral Kathakali Center for Kathakai dancing and entertainment. This is a center dedicated to preserving the rich culture and arts of Kerala. Here, we arrived at about 5.30 p.m. to witness the elaborate make-up routine of the all-male cast of the Kathakali performance. The make-up and costumes are elaborate in the extreme. At 6 p.m., our announcer, who was also the singer, informed us of the origins and nuances of this style of dance/theater. It involves no speech but very expressive facial and hand/arm gestures. The facial expression consists of rapid and exaggerated eye movements, facial ‘twitches’ and broad and graceful, for the most part, arm and hand gestures. A lexicon of the various gestures was demonstrated, such as fear, anger, love, go, come back, etc. This preceded the actual performance which concerned a powerful man and a woman (of course). The performance which we could interpret by means of recalling the various gestures was very dramatic and did not end happily. It was accompanied by atonal singing, redolent of fado or flamenco, as well as drumming and the sounds of the small hand accordion like instrument. Afterwards we headed to the Fort House Hotel where there is an open-air sea-food restaurant.