12 Kollam to Ashtamudi

We set off for Kollam, about 120 kms to the south on the coast of Kerala. First we stopped at the Spice Market in an area known a ‘Jew Town’ owing to the presence there of an old but still active synagogue. The narrow streets were full of shops, one of which was a Judaica store owned by a 96 year old lady who presided over the store. At the end of the street was the ancient synagogue – Paradesi Synagogue built in 1568. After spending some time there, we proceeded to the spice shop and an adjacent antique shop.

The State of Kerala is, we are told, ‘less Hindu’ than the rest of India with a more Moslem and Christian population than, say, in the north of the country. The relative absence of cows on the streets and the presence of beef on the menus in restaurants testify to this.

After our visit to this historic part of town, we rejoined the bus for a short ride until the driver needed to stop for a lunch break. We took this opportunity to walk a short way to see the Chinese fishing net apparatus which consists of a bamboo-type gantry upon which are suspended the nets. At high tide, the nets are lowered into the water and then hoisted up with the fish, which have swum into them. Apparently, the amount of fish caught this way is not very large. A little further on was a stall selling coconuts and Hemant bought some for us to try first drinking the ‘milk’ and then eating the flesh of what were young and sweet coconuts. On our way back to the bus, we encountered a wall, which contained some fairly radical graffiti concerning killing animals, pollution and other ills of the world.

This area, is, we are told governed by the Communist Party and there are elections upcoming. The way in which parties canvass here is by the display of flags representing the parties as there is a degree of illiteracy, which means that slogans and advertisements have more limited effect. In this area we saw many red flags, many with the ‘hammer and sickle’ logo on them representing the Communist Party as elections are upcoming in the spring and before monsoon.

The road south, which is NH 66, was quite narrow in places and we had the usual series of ‘close calls’ with coming traffic. John who rode in the front seat must have very nearly had paint on his arms, so close were we to passing vehicles.

After hours on the road, we turned down a narrow lane and arrived at the incredible Raviz Resort and Spa which is at a place called Ashtamudi (this refers to the large lake upon the shores of which the hotel is located, the Ashtabula meaning 8 and the ‘mudi’ being the ‘arms’ or inlets of the lake.

The hotel is very beautiful and there is a large ‘infinity’ swimming pool, several large boats for trips on the lake including one with rooms, which guests can stay in. A huge long boat, full of spices dominates the lobby.

After finding our room and having our baggage delivered, we went down to the jetty where tea was served and then boarded our boat for a sunset cruise. The boat was large and spacious and made of what seemed to be heavy teak wood. There was an upper deck and a shady lower deck. We proceeded off passing a large house with a huge white statue of a nude lady in the front of it. Then on past fishing boats waiting to go out for the night’s fishing, more of the ‘Chinese’ fishing net contraptions and several Christian churches on the shore one of which was having a very loud ‘revivalist’ type service.

Our brief but very enjoyable evening cruise ended and we repaired to the suite of Hemant and Darshana, for a pre-dinner drink and to watch the sun set through their huge picture window. Then it was down to the foyer for a short 15 minute Indian dance performance by a very talented young lady dancer. Dinner followed, which was a choice of an extensive buffet or an a la carte menu.